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Surprisingly, when eating the larger portion, diners also ate more accompanying side dishes, and tacked an average extra calories onto their meals.
The same marketing journals that discuss "super sized" food portions trends also point to "light and healthy" meals as a new marketing segment, and the same fast food firms that are creating killer burgers are also selling low-fat alternatives, salads, and putatively "healthy" fare.
During a recent phone call to a friend I was asked whether I had made any New Year's resolutions. I hadn't, but his question pointed to a peculiar aspect of American culture, in all its variations, that I think relates to food.
We are deeply conflicted consumers, especially of food, given that we relish fatty fast food an empirical observation born of the data and at the same time worry about our health, trying on new diets and health kicks as if seasonal fashion also an empirical observation born of the data - just look at the Atkins craze, including "low-carb pasta" for God's sake.
It reminded me deeply of conflicted Protestant culture, prone to excess but rife with guilt, making amends for the weaknesses of the world to which you succumbed.
Hence, during Prohibition we also had one of the greatest decades of social and cultural excess "The Roaring 20s".
The recent rash of New Year's-related articles on dieting point to the tendency for dieters to rebound, gaining their weight back after a few months of trying.
In a similar sense, the American consumer as a whole is rebounding, drifting towards healthy habits and food, then gravitating towards larger portions, which - it can't be denied with the data - do resonate with customers.
Obviously, diet control is multivariate and complex; individual choices must be made within the context of historical trends, public health policy, food traditions, and corporate marketing campaigns.
But people also exhibit behaviors which I think lends itself to the "internally conflicted" view of the fast food consumer.
Years ago a friend visited Los Angeles after many years of living in Seattle where he had become a vegetarian. Posted by Formosus at PM. No comments:.
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From Highbrow to Lowbrow Anitwar. Foiled Again! The beer-battered onion rings are also available for a limited time as a side item.
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